Say Cheese!

Today truly encapsulated the unique nature of Spoleto Study Abroad’s Taste of Umbria program. Students drove an hour south of Spoleto to the tiny village of Trivio, nestled high in the mountains on the edge of Umbria. Less than 100 people live in Trivio year round, and one of these people is a childhood friend of Andrea Muti, Taste of Umbria guide and nephew of SSA founders Jill and Lorenzo.

Andrea’s friend Domenico helps run his family’s agritourism business, called Dolci Giuseppina, named after Domenico’s mother. Students met Domenico’s mother, father, and sister, and heard about how they produce various organic grains and legumes, including spelt, chickpeas, farro, lentils, saffron, and even pecorino cheese.

Students spent the morning touring the farm, driving out through the fields, meeting the animals, and learning the importance of methodical, hand-grown and harvested organic products. Then it was time to make the cheese! Giuseppina demonstrated how to boil the fresh milk and introduce certain herbs to cause the milk to curdle into cheese. The students then had the chance to squeeze the curdled milk into cheese and place it in its pecorino forms.

Then came a gourmet lunch sampling of various Dolci Giuseppina products, including pecorino, fresh honey, spicy sausage, farro salad with lemon and mint, two types of lentil soup, and fresh panna cotta with sugar. After this delicious meal and some time to purchase Dolci Giuseppina products to take home, students headed back to Spoleto for siesta.

Before dinner, they shared their favorite photos from their time in Spoleto, and read aloud from their journals. Their insight into Italian vs. American culture and the uniqueness of this Taste of Umbria experience was highly impressive and moving.

Tomorrow is the last day, and we can’t believe how the time has flown!

Cool Beach Day

Today was beach day for our Taste of Umbria students, and even better than that, the weather at the beach was breezy and far cooler than in Spoleto. Unfortunately, some summer storms rolled in early in the afternoon, bringing much needed rain across the region but cutting our beach day short. Students got some time in the summer and the Adriatic Sea before the rain drove them inside for some yummy sandwiches and seafood pasta.

Back in Spoleto, the storms and cool weather continued, making it the perfect time for a cozy afternoon nap, calls home, and student bonding. After several days filled with things to do, this easy day was a welcome change of pace for our students. Plus, Spoleto has not gotten any rain for almost two months, and this drought is affecting several vital crops in this agriculturally rich region, such as tomatoes and olives.

Stringozzi, Cornetti, and Movie!

Apologies for the brief blog post, but our Taste of Umbria students have been out and about all day, and didn’t arrive back in the convent until past midnight…but it was worth it!

The morning began with sleeping in and breakfast out in Spoleto on their own, Then it was time for a pasta-making class with Nonna (grandmother), who runs the kitchen at the Hotel Clitunno where students eat the majority of their meals. She taught them how to make strangozzi, the specialty pasta from Spoleto, with a light tomato sauce. We all ate it for lunch, and it was delicious.

After strangozzi, it was down to New Spoleto to learn to make cornet (croissants) from a childhood friend of SSA staff member Andrea Muti (nephew to founders Jill and Lorenzo Muti). If the laughs and constant chatter were any indication, the students had a blast!

Following cornetti making was a brief siesta, dinner at the Hotel Clitunno, and then…a movie night! The modern art museum in Spoleto hosts an outdoor movie night, and the students watched an American film (with Italian subtitles) out under the stars. It was a long day, but we all agreed it was one of the best!

Hello, Siena!

Today, our Taste of Umbria students piled into a bus and rode two hours out of Umbria and into Tuscany, to Siena. Siena is a popular tourist destination in Tuscany, rivaled only by Florence an hour away. Unlike Spoleto, Siena was quite crowded with visitors from all over the world, so students spent the day observing multiple cultures interact in Italy. With a long main street lined with boutique shops, Siena had something for everyone.

After seeking out a lunch at one of the many hidden restaurants and cafes, students reconvened to tour Siena’s iconic Gothic duomo. “It’s so Gothic it’s emo!” said student Noam Haim.

Then it was back on the bus to Spoleto. The students agreed, after having lived for five days in Spoleto, that the town feels like home. While Siena was fun, it felt good to get home.

Searching Spoleto for Inspiration

Today, our Taste of Umbria students had the whole day in Spoleto, so they slept in before venturing to a local coffee shop, Tebro, for breakfast. Students enjoyed rosemary and ham pizzette, mini glazed fruit tarts, strawberry cornetti, and much more, while spending time observing the locals and working on their reflective, creative projects (with photography and writing).

Enjoying breakfast at Tebro

They then moved on down the hill, out of Old Spoleto and into New Spoleto. Though it was Sunday and the numerous boutiques along the route were closed, students found several they intend to return to on another day.

Then it was back up—via escalator, thankfully—to La Rocca and the aqueduct for some solo journaling and photographing time. Students submitted two photos each from the morning, and here are a few of their pictures:

Photo by Yoongi Meyers

Photo by Noam Haim

Photo by Erika Shiffman

After siesta, students met SSA founder Lorenzo Muti for a tour of some of Spoleto’s most historic locations, including the town hall, the Roman house, and the duomo. Mr. Muti shared the long history of Spoleto, beginning from pre-Roman times, and described the Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance styles that are prominent in the city’s architecture.

Future Chocolatiers?

On another sweltering day in Italy, the Taste of Umbria students got to spend their morning in the beautiful, air-conditioned chocolate school at Perugina, an Italian chocolate company located in Perugia that is famous for its “Baci” treats. To say this experience was memorable would be a massive understatement! Not only did students learn how chocolate is made from the very beginning of its process through the final result, but they were able to make chocolate truffles from scratch.

Perugina’s master chocolatier (who has worked for the company for over thirty years) led the students step-by-step through chopping dark chocolate, heating cream and melting the chocolate into a ganache, tempering melted chocolate—heating and cooling the chocolate to very precise temperatures in order to make it strong and shiny—and combing all these ingredients together into beautiful chocolate truffles. Each student left with 20 truffles of their own, a souvenir (chocolate-covered) apron, and lots of smiles.

Then it was off to Lake Trasimeno, the largest lake in Umbria, for lunch. Students sampled multiple appetizers and the torta al testo, a regional speciality sandwich (pictured below). Several plates of potato croquettes, caprese salad, arancini (fried rice balls), squid salad, and fried olives later, the students voted to split into two groups—one to return to Spoleto and enjoy a siesta, and another to journey to the hill town of Spello for a quick visit.

At dinner later in the day, they celebrated student Erika’s 17th birthday with tiramisu, pastries, and a singing of “Happy Birthday” in half Italian and half English.

High Temperatures Can't Stop Taste of Umbria Students

With temperatures reaching over 100 degrees Fahrenheit today in Spoleto, our Taste of Umbria students headed out early this morning, before it got too hot, to experience an inside look into two family-owned businesses in the region.

First came book making at Paoluzi, an art store run by Leonardo, who has been hand-making journals for over 40 years using a centuries old technique. Students watched him craft a whole journal in just an hour, as Leonardo explained the different materials and techniques required for this skill (translated by his son, to whom Leonardo has passed down his knowledge).

After a quick (but delicious) coffee break, students headed to nearby Trevi to tour Marfuga, an olive oil company whose extra virgin oil has won dozens and dozens of awards, including first place in the world’s first and only international olive oil competition (Armonia). Students met the owner Francesco Gradassi, who took over Marfuga from his father Ettore, and heard how extra virign olive oil is made.

Then came a tasting of three different olive oils, following by a lunch of various small plates containing olive oil, including: bruschetta with sun-dried tomatoes, olives, or truffle and mushroom; farro salad with arugula; crostini; and two types of tarts for dessert. The students braved the sweltering heat for just ten minutes to wander amongst the olive groves and take stunning pictures of the Spoleto valley.

After a well-earned siesta filled with gelato and naps, students reassembled to plan their creative writing and photography components of this program. After dinner, they finished the day with a stroll around La Rocca castle.

Taste of Umbria Students Arrive in Italy

Though we were sad to say goodbye to our incredibly talented intensive students, that means it’s time for the Taste of Umbria program!

Students began arriving in Italy today, and after everyone made it to Rome (all checked bags successfully in tow!), they boarded a van and began the picturesque drive from Rome to Spoleto. Upon arrival, they were given time to explore the convent where they’ll be living before meeting in the courtyard for orientation.

Taste of Umbria students have orientation with SSA staff, including founder Jill Muti

After orientation, there was time for a quick tour of the main piazzas in Old Spoleto before heading to the iconic duomo to see it at sunset (the best time). Then they were off to dinner at the Hotel Clitunno to enjoy gnocchi in pomodoro sauce, beef and potato stew, and fresh peaches.

Students enjoy a quick tour of Spoleto from Andrea Muti

And of course, what day in Spoleto would be complete without gelato? It was off to Crispini Gelato after dinner, a gelateria that specializes in award-winning pistachio (“pistaccio”) gelato. You would hardly believe our students have been traveling nonstop for almost a whole day; their energy and excitement was radiating throughout the drive to Spoleto and our evening meal. We can’t wait to get the program into full swing tomorrow!

Students get their first glimpse of Spoleto’s iconic duomo

Day 9: The group’s final day in Spoleto

It’s hard to believe our Intensive program is coming to an end and it is our last day in Spoleto.  

The Photography students finished up all of their editing in Adobe Lightroom and put together a final presentation of their artwork, and the visual arts students put the final touches on their pieces.

Photo by Ellie Hayward

The final showcase highlighted and celebrated all of the hard work the students put in. It was heartening and inspiring to listen and to see the process by which each student reached his/her/their final pieces.  Each artist provided an oral overview of inspiration, process, and product and celebrated the revision and editing time required to hone their respective skills.  What a testament to our faculty and to the creative intentions of our artists.  It was truly a privilege to spend this time with these budding forces!

“During my time in Spoleto Italy, I not only grew as a photographer, but I also endured a beautiful, new social and cultural experience. This was my first time in Italy, so I had no real expectations as to what life would look like here. However, this magical city eclipsed any and every location I have traveled to. The beauty of Spoleto is genuinely unreal; its architecture, food, religion, values, and people all radiate a rich energy that is indescribable. In Spoleto, I had the opportunity to experience the city, form amazing relationships with the students from this program, and photograph heaps of images that I will hold onto forever.

As an artist, I typically gravitate towards capturing still photographs of people. Although the landscape and architecture of Spoleto is ethereal, the individuals who live here truly reflect Italian life. Because of this, I chose my portfolio to focus on the people of Spoleto. I explored Spoleto, Assisi, Spello, and Montefalco, and I captured many different people on my Canon Digital Camera. Each unique city led to more and more unique photographs. I am so grateful we got to travel across multiple cities because each had their own distinctive story to tell.

For my portfolio, I chose three of my favorite black and white photographs and three of my favorite colorful photographs. When editing in black and white, I chose to create a more timeless aura to the photograph to depict the timeless history of Italy. When editing in color, I chose to add a lot of saturation and vibrance in order to showcase the liveliness and color of Italy.

Although each set of photographs look very different, I truly believe that my time here has tremendously improved myself discovery as an artist by teaching me new techniques and giving me the agency to formulate my artistic aesthetic.
”

— Eva Rouland, Photography Student

Day 8: Hello Montefalco!

Today, the photography students explored Montefalco, a beautiful village in Umbria. Situated in the central west of Umbria, Montefalco stands on a hill carpeted with olive trees and grape vines, in the middle of the valley of the Clitunno, Topino and Tiber rivers. This breathtaking position has led to Montefalco being known as The Balcony-rail of Umbria. Because of its environmental, cultural, and artistic heritage, Montefalco has become part of the club The Most Beautiful Villages of Italy.

A fresco in Montefalco

Meanwhile, Visual Arts students had studio time to finish their various pieces in preparation for tomorrow’s final showcase event.

In the evening, instead of having dinner at the Hotel Clitunno like usual, students dined in small groups with SSA faculty members at restaurants throughout Spoleto. It’s the penultimate day for our intensive students, and we can’t believe how time has flown!

Day 7: Touring Spoleto's Duomo

SSA students touring the duomo in Spoleto, led by Lorenzo Muti

Photography and art students began the day together with a tour of the Duomo di Spoleto led by Lorenzo Muti. The duomo was built in the 12th century, although like several other buildings in the area, it was built around an existing building. We learned that the lions, seen in sculptures near the duomo’s entrance, have symbolized the strength of the Catholic Church, and are common at Romanesque churches. The portico was built in the 15th century. It features Renaissance elements such as the harmonious interplay of geometric patterns in the floor tiles, and emblems including the bees symbolizing the importance of the Barberini family (one member being the Bishop of Spoleto, who later became Pope Urban VIII).

The entrance to Spoleto’s duomo, featuring lion sculptures

Upon entering the duomo, strains of soft organ music filled the air. The duomo is known as the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta (Cathedral of the Ascension of St. Mary), celebrating Mary’s life and ascent to heaven. This is depicted in a series of frescos by the artist Filippo Lippi entitled Stories of the Virgin (1466–1469). Mr. Muti explained how the artist used sketching and plaster techniques to produce the vivid images–and yet how some areas in which artists used dry-painting techniques on plaster added much later did not stand the test of time.

As an interesting side note, Filippo Lippi is also famous for having been a monk who fell in love with a nun and started a family. His self-portrait appears in the fresco above the choir loft. He is said to have continued to wear his monk robes for the rest of his life.

In the rear of the church sits the Chapel of the Most Holy Icons, home to a Byzantine icon constructed of wood and silk which is believed to have mysterious, supernatural healing powers.

We exited the duomo and headed down a steep staircase along the Roman walls of the city, crossing the Via Flaminia to enter the Monumental City Cemetery, also known as the City of the Dead. According to Roman burial traditions, people were buried along great roads. The cemetery lies on a hill alongside the Via Flaminia, one of Rome’s great roads. It is a place where family members can come to stay in touch with loved ones who have passed, which is reflected in the small stone buildings constructed there, almost like a village of tiny houses. Many of the tombs and gravestones have flowers, living plants, photographs, lights or candles, within a glass enclosure further encased by ornate iron gates.

Spoleto’s “City of the Dead”

At the top of the hill lies the Basilica di San Salvatore (the Basilica of St. Savior) a UNESCO World Heritage site. Thought to have been built between the 4th–5th centuries, it is one of the oldest churches in Europe. It was originally dedicated to Concordio and Senzia, martyrs who were believed to have worked miracles. A group of Syrian monks arrived in Spoleto from Monteluco and started living in the caves nearby. They brought with them architectural styles from the east which are reflected in the design of the church’s ambulatories. Although it is currently closed for repairs due to damage from the earthquake in 2016, peering in the window at the front of the church one can get a sense of the air of mystery this special basilica holds.

Mid-morning the visual arts students returned to the studio to continue the previous day’s projects of their choice, some listening to music on headphones, while others worked to the soundtrack of Mamma Mia! Media included charcoal, lead pencils, kneadable erasers, conté, watercolor, acrylic paint, oil pastels, and chalk pastels.

Photography students have been writing reflections on their work for presentation. They are planning how to use their time over the next couple days as they wrap up their projects.

Day 6: Visual Arts on the Move

Day 6 another banner day for SSA. The Visual Arts students started the day in a private sunflower field where they sat and sketched sunflowers while enjoying the Umbrian vista. They met a friendly dog and her owner. Next was a quick visit to Trevi where they experienced music students practicing opera and strings in a converted villa. Finally, they traveled to Assisi where they took in the astounding beauty of the frescoes of Giotto at the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. It was a very hot but transcending experience.

“We were able to get up close and draw from real life sunflowers,” said Visual Arts student Annika Mermans. “After we left the sunflower field, we took a stop at Trevi when we saw a beautiful view and got to listen to music. My favorite part was when we went to the Basilica of Saint Francis and able to walk around and learn about the cathedral. “

Meanwhile, the photography students spent the day in Spoleto enjoying lots of delicious food!

“We spent the day with just the photography group,” says Photography student Lola Hyman, “and had yummy meals in other restaurants around Spoleto. I was able to go on a walk past the castle to take some cool photos, and I enjoyed a coffee on the way. We also tried out the tunnels underground with our group and grabbed some gelato together.”

Day 5: Spoleto Weekly Market

Students in the Garibaldi market

Students started the day with a visit to the Garibaldi market in the lower level of Spoleto, which is held every Friday. Art students were tasked with finding props for their individual still life studies, and in the afternoon they had their choice of media to render their pieces. Photography students spent the day exploring the lower market in Spoleto and photographing. Students are spending time editing images in Adobe Lightroom and preparing a collection of photographs for their personal portfolios. Here are a few examples of student work from Italy:

Photo by Lola Hyman

Photo by Lauren Novellas

Photo by Eva Rouland

Photo by Zach Wood

Photo by Eleanor Hayward

Below: Visual Art students work with various mediums to bring to life their morning market purchases.

Day 4: Exploring Assisi

Photography students spent the morning in Assisi, Italy. Pilgrims have been coming to Assisi, Italy since the 13th century to venerate St. Francis, who was born and buried here, but you don’t have to be religious to enjoy the beauty of this postcard-perfect town. Framed by the long, undulating hills of Umbria and the forests of Monte Subasio, Assisi is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in the world and one of Italy’s most spell-binding gems. Assisi isn’t just home to UNESCO World Heritage sites, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The entire town basks in this coveted status because of its plethora of art and historically significant buildings, like the Basilica di San Francesco. The basilica, in particular, has such a collection of frescoes and paintings that it rivals many art museums. According to the UN, The town has a singular importance for its role in the diffusion of the Franciscan Order and for its “continuity of a city-sanctuary” from its Umbrian-Roman origins to today.

Photography students in front of the Basilica of Saint Francis in Assisi

The most famous and probably most impressive attraction in Assisi is the Basilica of St. Francis. It’s also literally the biggest thing in the area – so massive you can see it for miles around. Anywhere else in the world, it would be its own UNESCO World Heritage site, but as it is, it’s the jewel in Assisi’s crown.  

Construction on the Basilica was started immediately after St. Francis’ death in 1228 and it was officially completed after the addition of the upper church in 1253. It is divided into the upper church and the lower church, and regardless of which one you’re in, you’re looking at incredible frescoes. 

Photography students overlooking the Spoleto valley

The upper church, or Basilica Superiore, is covered with 28 frescoes by Giotto (with extensive help from members of his school) which are probably the main artistic stars of the church. Each fresco is a scene from St. Francis’ life. Though completed centuries ago, the frescoes are still fabulously vibrant.

“Today, the photography group took a little field trip to Assisi, home of St.Claire and St.Francis. My favorite part was seeing the structure of the churches and the Frescos. A Fresco is an art piece on the ceiling of a church. I loved trying to understand how they were able to build the church and paint the Frescos.”

– Photography student Zach Wood 

“Today, the art students kept working on their paintings we sketched out from life yesterday. I love the freedom I am able to have with my painting. I don’t feel tied down to the painting and the process is very relaxing.”

– Visual Art student Leah Teowolde

Day 3: Spello, Sunflowers, and Searching for Inspiration

Today, our visual art and photography students ventured out in search of inspiration in and around Spoleto.

Photography students had the opportunity to explore Spello, Italy—a small hill town just a half hour north of Spoleto. Spello is the location for the patron saint of photography, Saint Veronica, who formerly served as the patron saint of linen makers and linen maids. At the end of the 19th century, Saint Veronica became the patron saint of photographers, who were creating the first fixed images of reality.

“Today the photo family got to explore the beautiful Spello,” says Photography student Ellie Hayward. “The people were vibrant and the architecture was inspirational. While people-watching, we enjoyed cappuccinos, peaches, and pastries. It was a perfect morning.”

After exploring the medieval town of Spello, the photography students went out in the Umbrian countryside to visit incredibly beautiful fields of sunflowers.

Photography Intensives students experience the iconic Umbria sunflower fields

Visual Art students went into Spoleto to find inspiration for their observational acrylic drawings. “We then blocked in tones for the paintings,” says Visual Art student Lukas Asinger, “as well as planned the color scheme and style for the rest of the painting.”

Can’t wait to see what tomorrow holds!